A search for random variables

A couple weeks ago I held an open call for subjects in a local and colorful outdoor square in search of a true random sampling of street fashion. Part of the allure of my theme of dress is the limitless variation and unpredictability. Many sociologists have attempted to study fashion in a mathematical sense, but there are simply too many variables to consider. The same shirt could be worn in a double xxl on a shorter person and give a completely different look than a xs on someone tall . Or take the painting I did of a guy wearing a red sox shirt, rolled up to expose his mid-drift - quite a different look than if it were worn regularly.

My experiment proved to be fruitful and full of variance. I walked away with over twenty subjects that posed for me in an array of clothing types, styles and colors. Each served a different function whether it be a professional uniform, a showcase for sports enthusiasm, a brand to show status or workout gear. Basically, I have my work cut out for me. Lots of subjects and ideas for paintings. I hope to create as many as I can before I host my first outdoor solo show in October - in the same square that I found my subjects. Stay tuned!

Waiting for Spring

Red, White and Blue

I, like many Bostonians are getting impatient waiting for Spring this year. At 35 degrees - it is just not cutting it. Not only do I personally enjoy walking in the warm sun while the birds sing, but I also look forward to the change of wardrobes on the street. There is an especially magic moment that happens on those first beautiful days when people seem to wear their most exciting outfits. Maybe they are the ones they have been longing to wear since last year, or it could be a new fashion trend that they bought in January when the stores told them it was the right time to buy it. Whatever the reason, I have noticed that when the new warmth blankets the city, I see more and more potential subjects all around me.

This year I am excited to be working with the city of Somerville on a project that will encourage people on the street to volunteer to be my subjects - still in the early planning stages, more details to come. I am hoping to start this new method of recruitment in the next month or so while the spring fashion is in high bloom.

Rules of Rebellion

I read an interesting take on the evaluation of apparel among subcultures. It was written in the 90's but the interpretation still seems to apply. Even the rebellious have their own rules to follow and in many cases are attempting to conform in their own way. A biker should be clad in their black leather jacket, a punk rocker must choose the right genre of band tee paired with appropriately unique stockings. As I am not a member of these groups, I may not have it exactly right - but those who seek to be a part of these subcultures seem to all know the rules. Especially with so many social outlets - it must enable the dictation of these standards to laid out clearer.

Youth are often the ones who adopt these subculture rules in attempt to find their niche in an environment that is ever evolving and uncertain. I remember when I was in high school there was an outbreak of cat ears - it seemed all at once each quite, mysterious, quirky girl came in wearing these. Separate at first, now they had an immediate identifier that they were in the same social group.

More than a feeling?

I recently did an interview with SCAT - which was wonderful, very receptive, great conversation flow. But at one point it was that brought up that I could be perceived as anti-consumerism. I didn't protest it at the moment, but it got me thinking. My stance is try to just be an observer, not a dictator of opinion for or against the perceptions we have. However, how do I personally feel about fashion? I think wearing a complementary outfit can give you an empowering, feel-good sensation. I think consumerism is important, clothing has the potential to bring out the best in you. It is that power, along with the other side effects that keep my interest.

But this topic is far from a black and white answer like that. I know that for some, getting dressed in the morning could be the hardest part of their day. There are those who are overwhelmed by the need to keep up on the latest fashions, sometimes driven to debt. There are others who are not allowed to express themselves via religious or social bindings. Not to mention, there is the ongoing pressure of body image to fit into the clothing correctly. In the end it is the feelings of the  individual and those of the onlookers that interest me more than my own opinions on fashion, but I do want to state for the record that my motives are not to bring down the department stores and return to hand woven attire - I tried that once, it was very time consuming!

What does fashion mean to you?

Rolling out the red carpet

The seedling of an idea has come into my mind. I have mostly played the unobserved voyeur in my search for subjects on the street, but I have wondered if I should attempt to interact with these strangers. The timid side of me is fearful of this notion. After recently being awarded a fellowship grant by the Somerville Arts Council (which was awesome!), I started to try to think about the community aspect of the grant. They like you to bring your art into the community. Instantly I thought about how I could bring my art to the streets, where it all begins for me. I would love to have an outdoor show where it looks like my subjects are walking off the canvas. Then came the thought of inviting subjects to participate.

Ok here goes my crazy idea - a red carpet in Union square, inviting passers by to walk down it and be photographed by me. This gives people the opportunity to opt - in, while still giving me the motion of them walking, hopefully still looking natural enough and I have the chance to ask them for information. To the right is my mock up of this scenario. I would have my tripod set up with a rapid sequence of shots in hopes to capture the right one. I can also gather some answers to questions about self-perception of dress. I was thinking I could ask something like "what do you think other's think of your outfit." After this all goes down, I head back to my studio for 6 mons or so, and come back to Union Square with an outdoor show of paintings based on that photography session. Feedback?

One day your in...

There are a lot of interesting theories on fashion. Ever-changing but cyclical, exclusive but common; every culture experiences this to a certain degree. Some say fashion has always been an attempt to separate the classes, introduced by the high society. This would in theory make it easier to spot out others of the appropriate income bracket. Then comes the trickle down: when bargain shops adopt the same styles, bridging the gap. Now it is time to reinvent the next trend.

In my observation, there are many people that adopt trends to fit in and others that adopt them to stand out. Clothing gives everyone the opportunity to identify their role, sometimes we consciously mold this persona, and sometimes it is subconscious. Some decide they must be the ones others look to for new trends. Others will keep a closet full of basics that will hopefully be consistently "acceptable." 

My earliest memories of caring about what I wore came around Middle School. This is a pivotal time for kids in their mico-societies, as they are quickly defined as cool or uncool, with heavy emphasis on their attire. In the seventh grade, I remember I made the decision to wear purple every day for that school year. I think I told myself that if I made one decision - color, maybe no one would focus on the rest. It is suffice to say, I didn't end up in the cool group...

Right: "School Uniform" Oil on canvas with Fleece, wool and suede. 24” x 42”

Traditional meets unconventional

Though my process of using fabric instead of canvas in this instance is unlike most, the remaining methods I use are as traditional as Renascence paintings. In my current piece I have stretched hot pink fabric instead of canvas then gessoed only his silhouette. (This is a bit painstaking but I love the finished look of being surrounded by a flat material background.) Next I work on my underpainting - sketching with two opposing colors of thinned paint.

Every oil painter works differently, but I usually start in with oils of high contrast and vibrant colors. I chose this photo of a fellow artist in my studio as a reference in part because of the excellent light and shadow effect of his drink. That and as you will see later, he is wearing an ant vest along with this hot pink ruffled shirt. (side note - he came to my opening wearing this, he must have wanted a painting to happen!)

After a few coats of coloring blocking in this style, I start to use liquin to glaze colors on. This gives depth to the piece, especially when dealing with skin tones. Below I did a thin coat of green all over - I like to go back and forth with greens and reds while I continue to work. The photo has a bit glare because it is very glossy when a glaze is wet.